Inside A Winning Class II Racer
Story and Photographs by Don Emmons
Although this '67 Beetle looks stock, it proved
victorious in the recent Baja 1000 in SCORE's most competitive class!
To those not familiar with off-road racing,
this Volkswagen probably looks like a stock sedan decked out with
a set of numbers and driving lights. Well that's just what it is,
a Class 11 racer. SCORE International introduced this class for
stock Beetles and you'd be hard-pressed to find a class governed
by more stringent rules. Class 11 VWs are factory stock in every
respect, from engine to suspension. Only "safety" mods
A totally stock Beetle could drive through Baja
a dozen times without trouble but to race over the same terrain
is another matter indeed. No swapping of components is allowed in
this class. And the engine, transaxle, and all major components
must be stock for that particular year of car. Preparing a Beetle
for Class 11 is very difficult as the severe restrictions have made
the class extremely competitive.
We heard some time back that a nice Class 11
bug was being prepared by a Los Angeles police officer and that
it might be worth checking out. The caller was Steve Ebbert, also
a policeman whose own two-seat buggy racer was featured in the last
issue of VW Greats. His friend, Rod Decker, had been helping
him and decided to jump into off-road racing with both feet by building
a Class 11 car.
Decker is a perfectionist and has followed SCORE's
Rule Book to the letter. He knew that racing a stock Beetle would
require every possible advantage that could be added. As it turned
out, Rod had the right formula. Shortly after we photographed his
car, he drove it to a "First in Class" in the Baja 1000.
Here's a close look at how he got his Type 1 race-ready.
The car is a '67 model that he drove to work
and still does occasionally. First the body was taken off the pan
and all the undercoating removed. The front end is a stock '67 unit
with the center portion of the torsion tubes cut and rotated 3/8-inch
before being rewelded. This gives better ground clearance and is
allowable. The stock towers were beefed up with more welds, as were
most other critical portions of the chassis. The pan cannot be reinforced
but rewelding is allowed. The stock long tie rod was reinforced
by slipping a piece of chrome-moly tubing over it, a recommended
procedure. VW front axle support tubes are also allowed. These are
stock VW items from the parts counter which mount behind the lower
axle tube and extend back to the floorpan on both sides of the front
At the rear a set of spring arm retainer straps
are used, along with a set of Auto-Haus solid mount transmission
straps. A Beef-A-Diff kit and a heavy-duty side plate were added
to the transaxle. The brakes front and rear are stock, but utilize
larger wheel cylinders. The centers of the wheels were rewelded
and run Mickey Thompson Max Track off-road tires all around.
The roll cage was fabricated specially for the
car out of 1 1/2-inch mild steel tubing. It's made in sections allowing
it to be taken apart so the body can be removed to work on the chassis
between races. Giese Racing Engines in Costa Mesa, California, built
the cage. The seat bracket is another item that shows planning.
A frame structure constructed of 1/2-inch tubing was made up and
the two bucket seats attach to it. This entire seat unit is fastened
to the floor but can be removed easily. All of the stock upholstery
was removed and sheet aluminum installed on the inside door panels
and rear quarter panels. A second spare timer, battery and air cleaner
mount to the roll cage in the rear seat area.
Rod prepared the body for paint before taking
it over to Alfred Felix to spray on the white acrylic. After the
paint was applied, large Cibie Super Oscar driving lights were added
for long distance visibility. Cibie iodine quartz units also replaced
the stock sealed-beam headlights. Stock bumpers with overrider bars
and guards were used. Pieces of 1/4-inch aluminum sheet attach to
each bumper and extend under to the floorpan to serve as skid plates.
The only trouble Rod encountered during the
SCORE Baja 1000 race was two broken shocks, which gave them a total
downtime of about 40 minutes. Their winning time was 18 hours, 54
minutes, an average of 28.25 mph for the very tough course. But
this doesn't really tell the whole story. The best mini-pickup finished
in 21 hours and 49 minutes and the winner of the stock sedan non-VW
class was a Ford Ranchero which recorded a time of 21 hours and
31 minutes. The white Beetle even beat the fourth-place two-seat
Unlimited Engine Class finisher's time by 10 minutes!
The team of Rod Decker, Bill Alverson, and Jim
Harris really deserve credit for a very impressive car and a very
Baja 1000 competitors reckoned they had raced
against the white tornado. It's really only a stock VW Class 11
racer. Rod Decker took Class win in '76 1000 km race.
Fancy light bracket holds Cibie Super Oscar
Open hood reveals a spare tire and stock
1/4-inch thick aluminum plate is used for
skid plate. Holes allow exhaust tips to extend through. Stock bumper,
overrider bars and guards are mandatory.
Rules allow only stock VW wheels and any
make of tire not larger than 31 inches in height. Mickey Thompson
G78-15 tires are used. Running boards can legally be removed.
This Baja 1000 winner is a good example of
a well-prepared Class 11 ("pure stock") Volkswagen. Car
won its Class in 18 hrs. 54 min.
Interior shows off mandatory full roll cage.
This is the handiwork of Bob Giese of Giese Racing Engines. Seat
framework holds two extra shocks below fiberglass buckets.
The engine must remain stock. Steve Ebbert
helped put the motor together after Bates Engineering of Costa Mesa
did the allowable machining, such as align-boring, installing case
Spring plates must be stock VW items. Spring
plate retainer straps are safety wired.
Auto-Haus solid transmission straps and motor
mount kit are used. Heavy-duty side plate is installed with a Beef-A-Diff
inside. Mickey Thompson shocks are now used all around.
Roll cage goes on after body is bolted down
but we wanted to show what the cage unit looks like. It's made of
11/2-inch mild steel tubing with 1/8-inch wall thickness.
Notice how rear portion of cage was worked
out and how straps supporting it are fastened. Transaxle must be
Type 1 four-speed with stock ring and pinion.
Owner Rod Decker, made up 1/8-inch steel
plates to support rear of cage unit. Straps attach to rear loop
and at bottom to motor mount.
Decker points out the section of tie rod
that was reinforced with chrome moly tubing. This is one of the
few areas where reinforcing is allowed. Stock VW axle supports are
used. Axle was cut and turned 3/8-inch for better ground clearance.
Rear mount for roll cage is a U-shaped loop
welded to shock tower (arrow). Bracket holds end of tubing and a
bolt secures it in place. This makes a solid unit but one that can
be removed easily.
Rodster® owners saying about the Rodster® Street
A Few Words With ROD DECKER
San Pedro, California
about the general ease of assembly.
The manual was
quite explicit. It was a good guideline, especially in the beginning.
It had good ideas about preparing the car mechanically before you begin
disassembling the car. I found that I definitely needed the background
and experience in automotive engineering that I have from building other
cars to be able to evaluate exactly what needed to be done. I know without
Henry standing over somebody and showing him exactly what he's talking
about, you definitely had to have some mechanical background to do it.
A complete novice maybe wouldn't know where to start cutting the top
off. But basically, it was a fairly easy to follow manual.
I guess Henry was trying
to make it all things to all people, including people with no experience.
I'd say a total
novice would have a little problem; somebody just off the street who
has never built a car before.
I've talked to people who said it was their first car and they'd never
really done anything like it before.
Well, it depends
on the individual.
I did some off-road
racing. Built some cars for off-road racing. Successful in the Baja
1000; won it three times. So I'm not a novice building cars and fabricating
metal. I found a better solution to a few things just from my background
and experience, not that the original design or guidelines couldn't
be followed. I followed most of them. But I found that there were some
things I did do I felt were an improvement and I discussed them with
Henry. He agreed I had a lot of good ideas. I think it's his fourth
or fifth edition. It's a well designed car. I can't go anywhere without,
you know, people saying, "What is that?," you know, you have
ten people around asking what it is. Henry said it's one of the best
he's seen. A really well prepared car. Paint job, of course, is kind
of the key to the appearance of it. The preparation's everything, like
anything else you do. Putting the back on with the Vette glue
(Vette panel adhesive) and lining it up and being prepared takes
some ingenuity and forethought. And making washers and making things
work because the AOM guy from GM says, this is within tolerances --
but every S10 is different. You find that one S10 might be closer in
tolerances and the assembly, the putting together, might be a little
bit easier. Again, it depends on if you bought a car that's been wrecked
in the front but you don't know that by general appearance, but the
frame's been bent, but you do the best you can finding a good donor
car and then go from there. You do the best you can. Overall, I'm quite
satisfied with it. Second time around, I could probably build it in
half the time.
did it take you?
I bought the
car in February and... complete drivable, paint and everything, it took
me about six months. There's a guy that'll build them -- according to
Henry, it took him three months. He said, basically, about 120 hours
is the guideline. If that's all you're working on and that's all you
do, and you get up in the morning and that's your job. You've got to
have the tools to do the job. Without the tools, you might as well not
even start. He had a good list of tools that were necessary, anywhere
from all your metrics -- because in '89 Chevy went all metric, so there's
no American standard -- so you have to have a complete set of metric
wrenches. You should have a complete set of metric taps and dyes. You
have to cut tab bolts metric -- you should have those because you have
to go fetch and go to your local hardware store. I had a lot of stuff
that I used that I cut and threaded myself. Overall, you can do it by
following those guidelines, but I think it really helps to have some
experience. The end product is the key... the overall finished product,
to have it exactly the way it should be, without any loose ends. Doing
the front end, you've got to drop the lower control arms and replace
those with the lowering kit, which is quite a feat. Takes a lot of work
to pull those springs out and drop the lower control arms and replace
them. So there's a lot of work involved, there's no doubt about it.
It's not a piece of cake, as far as I'm concerned.
do it all yourself?
but the paint. I did do a couple of things, one thing that -- probably,
guys don't have to do unless their bearings are shot -- I put bearings
in the tranny and stuff like that. The carrier bearings and wheel bearings
and differential in mine were howling, so I put an Auburn 373 lock-track
(limited-slip differential) in it and put all new bearings in it; I
just dropped the rear end ratio down to 373 instead of 342; it gives
you more performance off the line. But I had to do it anyway, and with
the lock-track you have both back wheels driving, which is very essential
to me. I would recommend to put that in the manual, that if you want
to get decent performance without engine modifications, just change
the differential and put a lock-track in it, which runs about $1,000.
You can put as much money into it as you want to put into it. The overall
quality of the automobile is based on how much you spend and what you
do, you know, how much money you want to spend to do it right.
have you invested in it?
include the donor car?
Yes. I haven't
added up every little nut and bolt, but the basics, tires and wheels
and differential, carpet kit. Paint was $3,000, which is a darn nice
paint job, Tahoe Red, the '99 Tahoe Red, and it came out real nice.
Set of nerf bars -- had them chromed -- and all the little extra things
to make it right.
things. You can't buy nerf bars. You have to have them made. I have
a friend that I race with, he has a shop down in Temecula and we fabricated
them out of one inch chrome moly and bent them and then I sent them
over and had them chromed. Made the cap fit right into the rear frame
horns; tubular -- they're flat -- so they bolt onto the rear frame horns
to shim a spacer in between so that the bars would fit through the body.
Some things that I should have done before I took the back section out.
But, it's a lot of engineering, you know, afterthought and design, and
to come up with these other little things makes it a complete car.
you think of the fiberglass of the kit?
It's just about
the best you can probably buy today. It's the best kit available in
my opinion. Everything is just perfect. It's not a flimsy kit at all.
Very well done. I have to compliment Henry on the design. I know he's
spent a lot of time engineering and designing that before he went into
production with it. Did a heck of a job. I'm real pleased with it.
the fit to the donor car?
It was great.
It's kind of touchy when you have to put the back section on, and you
drill for the rear mounts and you fit it, then you take it off and strip
the panels on both sides to the bare metal, then you start with the
Vette glue and make sure you catalyze it correctly. If you mix too much
red in it, it'll set too quick and go off on you. That's one of the
most critical aspects of assembly is attaching that rear section to
the panels with Vette glue.
done kit cars before?
Just some Baja
kits. Baja Bugs, Volkswagens. I've never put together a complete kit
car before. I've put together race cars for off-road racing.
you run the Baja?
I raced from
'75 to '80. I won the Baja 1000 three times in a row. In '79, I went
to La Paz -- Ensenada-La Paz -- which was 1,000 miles and I took second.
Baja 1000, were you first overall or first in class?
First in class
in '76 Baja 1000. There were 380 vehicles involved in the "Wild
Wet 1000." It rained 13 hours before the race. They had the start
on Saturday instead of Friday from Ensenada. It was terrible, but we
finished it first in class out of 380 vehicles, including motorcycles.
We were 34th overall to cross the finish line. That's with a '67 stock
Volkswagen. It was Class 11. We had to run everything stock, but you
could do suspension modifications and things
like that. Raise the front a little. I thought that was one of the best
races that we ever ran. To be able to beat all those people -- they
couldn't believe it that this Volkswagen could beat them, you know.
We placed first in several performance classes, like 4th in Class 1,
which is the ultimate, maximum, fast cars. So all the way down the line,
we'd have placed in the money in every class, including motorcycles.
I mean, 34th overall, out of 380 vehicles, that was a pretty good feat.
Had an article in VW Greats magazine. Three or four page article
in the magazine. They came out and took pictures. 'Course, I saved the
must have loved you guys.
Yeah, but they're
quite a lot more sophisticated now. It'll cost you five times as much
to build the same car. When you do something like that, you've got to
throw everything aside. You work, you prepare the car, and you race.
All your spare time is used up by rebuilding and preparing the car for
the next race.
I used to do some road racing and you have to be completely focused
on the racing.
my early days, I liked the sports car races. Road racing at Willow Springs
and Laguna Seca, Torrey Pines and all those different races, that was
our interest back in those days.
race back then?
I didn't do
any of that road racing type of stuff. Couldn't afford to buy a car
back then, you know. My cars have always been my biggest interest...
Anyway, back to the Rodster. You have to see it to realize how nice
mentioned your beautiful red paint job and your chrome Baby Moons.
Have you seen
any of his cars? He has that black one with the flame job on it. Those
are Chevy rallies, rally wheels. The back ones are 15 X 8's, which are
'Vette wheels, and the 15 X 7 wheels are Camaros. The rallies in front
are chrome and the back 15 X 8's are chrome. I just happen to find them
in the Pennysaver for $300, which included the little flat police
caps. They really set the car off, rather than painting them silver.
That really makes a heck of a difference. But Henry's red car looks
planning to show your car?
I took it to
"Cops for Tots." "Cops for Tots" is a car show up
at the Los Angeles Police Academy, on October the first. Brought back
old memories -- that's where I graduated from. Twenty years LAPD --
'63 to '83, and I worked over here at the Port of Los Angeles for the
L.A. Port Police, May '83 to '97.
get into any good chases?
Lots of good
chases when I was on the PD... long ones.
you think of all the chases now?
I think it's
interesting. I'd rather watch a police pursuit than any TV program.
Yeah, I think they're quite interesting. I always went to work to do
things like chase somebody or chase them in a car, 'til you get into
the real long, fast, dangerous pursuit, and you'd say, "Yeah, that
was fun, but boy, was that dangerous."
the racer in you.
It's a competitive
attitude you gain through your fitness and athletics, competing in athletics
in high school and college. It sticks with you. Cars are part of the
get back to your Rodster. I was wondering where your donor came from.
It took me a
long time to find one. I wanted a 4.3, not a 2.8 -- they have no performance
and it has an early 700R transmission, which is not as strong as their
later Series III, which came with the 4.3. If you get up into the 90's,
'93, something like that, you have to spend too much money and you don't
want to do that, spend a lot of money for... you know, $6,000 for a
car, you don't feel like cutting it up. So an ideal, I wanted to pay
like $3,000, $3,500 and I found an '89 S10 in Azusa. Saw it in Pennysaver.
Went up and saw it, and gave the gal a down payment, and took it home
the next day. An '89 S10 2-door, of course, and it originally had a
Tahoe package, and a roof rack, and tilt wheel, cassette player... Everything
worked good. The upholstery was good -- I had to do a little patchwork
on it and get a new carpet kit. Overall, it was a terrific car to cut
up. I didn't feel bad about cutting it up because the paint was so bad.
mileage did it have?
It had 112,000.
Probably, for an '89, you're talking 110,000 to 160,000, 170,000 miles
on them. I just took my chances that the transmission was fine and didn't
leak. The engine checked out fine; did a compression test and found
out that it was in pretty decent shape for 112,000. So I didn't have
to mess with the engine or transmission yet. Probably never will, because
I'm not going to drive it that much. But it doesn't use oil, good compression,
runs fine, transmission's in good shape, and I don't have to mess with
Two wheel. It
would be ridiculous to try to build one with 4-wheel drive. Not practical.
it dealing with Caroselli Design?
It was an excellent
experience with Henry. He's very personable, very helpful, and takes
the time to talk to you any time you want to call him. Because I live
locally in San Pedro, he was able to pick the kit up, and drop it off
at my house, which was quite nice. Dropped the kit off and saved me
a trip up there with the trailer. He's quite helpful. It was a pleasure
to deal with Henry. He's professional and eager to help. A lot of people
sell kits, but you try to get a hold of them again and you can't do
that. That's not the way it is with Henry.
of his car.
I know that.
He's got kind of an open-door policy. I go up there occasionally and
talk to him, look at the things, we discuss things. Nice to have him
this close when I had a couple of.... before I cut the thing, I wanted
to talk to him before I made some mistakes. Once you make a mistake,
it's pretty hard to correct it. When I went up to the car show,
I made a little information sheet on the car -- where the kit came from
and who to contact. I'd recommend him to a good friend -- you don't
do that if you don't think much of the guy.
me about the reactions to your car at the show?
There was a
lot of interest in the car. Somebody said, "Oh, look! Somebody
put an S10 dash in this car!"
other way around.
Well, it is,
in a sense.
the car around the S10.
You go to places
and they're looking at it. There's not too many around Southern California.
No, I've never
seen one. I've talked to very few people who actually knew what they
were. As a matter of fact, just two. Some of them were car enthusiasts.
One guy just happened to have seen an ad in one of the rod magazines
and was interested in it. He's on line, so... But it sure generates
a lot of interest, and for the money... I mean, if you do a ground-up
type of... You build a roadster, you have to buy everything -- the frame,
everything -- you'll end up with $50,000 or $60,000 in the car. If you
want a fun rod and do the same thing and have just as much fun driving
it and have it a little more reliable and smog legal and so on, the
Rodster's the way to go.
the fact that it's user friendly.
And in California,
with the smog restrictions, you have to register, but prior to '73 and
earlier, you don't have to smog them. Anything you buy after '73, you're
going to have to smog it. And that's a big consideration when you decide
to build an automobile -- is it smog legal or can I make it smog legal?
about the handling and ride.
I found that
the handling was improved quite a bit. It's very sensitive to the road.
It handles very well through the corners with the dropped front end,
very stable. Put some Monroe Sensatrac shocks on it, put a good set
of shocks on it. It's a little bouncy because it's so light in the back
You can sense every little bump in the road because it's sensitive to
the bumps and things because it's so light. You drop 500 pounds off
there -- there isn't any weight back there. I talked to Henry about
it -- some of them pull leaves out of the springs and do some other
things to soften up the suspension. I might do that. Different ways
you can do it. Probably pull a leaf out of it -- the mid-leaf -- and
it'll soften it up some. You want a taut suspension for handling, but
you want to take it 600 to 700 miles on a trip and feel that bump all
of a sudden, kind of rock and roll...
the comfort inside the car?
on how much you want to spend on the interior, or on the seats. I haven't
done anything to the seats as far as putting new cushions on them. Stock
seats are probably broken down... you need a good cushion. Probably
ought to have the buckets completely redone with a good cushion on them
and be very, very comfortable. You know, with the original 112,000 on
them, the cushion's are broken down. But it's still comfortable. It's
not bad. Of course, that's something I haven't done yet that I'm planning
on doing, at least on the driver's side.
about the passenger?
can just hang out.
do you drive it?
It's an everyday
driver if I want to, but I've got a '99 Tahoe that I drive around that
I use for my primary vehicle, because I don't have to drive to work
anymore. But I take it out a couple of times a month, here and there.
I plan on going to other car shows and the Willow Springs races and
things like that, and get it out and use it. I'll probably at least
put more than 2,000 miles a year on it. But if you wanted to drive to
work every day, you could, because it's economical and mechanically
sound. You've got an S10 Blazer with a fiberglass body on it. Everything
else is the same -- cruise control, 4.3, and automatic -- so it's comfortable
Parts are available,
cheap. It's something that, let's say, a rod enthusiast would love to
own. It's so economical to actually build and to drive afterward, because
it's not a hotrod. You don't have to buy any special gas for it -- octane
boost -- you don't have to do any of that. You just drive it. Pump gas
-- 87 octane, any place you want. I wouldn't be afraid to take it anywhere.
I was going to drive it to Texas and visit my friend, I just don't want
to mess up the paint job.
getting it sandblasted across the desert, I don't know...
probably need a bra on the front of it or something. I wouldn't feel
comfortable. I plan on taking it to Palm Springs to the next car show
and auction they're going to have there. Vegas has races and car shows.
I'll just start using it for that type of thing. And cruising. Say you
wanted to take a cruise some place -- "Yeah, it's a nice night"
-- you just jump in and go.
like you're having fun with it.
Yeah, it's an
awful lot of work -- I didn't have any help -- but it's a good feeling
of satisfaction when you're done with it.
have fun doing it?
Oh, yeah. I
had a lot of fun with it. I enjoyed it. Taking out those lower control
arms wasn't much fun. You don't want to hear some of the stuff I yelled
out -- I guess that's par for the course. I like being able to use all
of the tools that I acquired through the years again, rather than sitting
here taking up space.
the best thing about the Rodster?
of it. It's economical to drive, it's fun, handles well. It handles
great and the performance is not bad at all, as far as the acceleration
is concerned. Overall, it's a fun car to drive. It's a sports car, because
now you have a roadster. You look at it and go, "Oh, that's one
of those new watchacallits or something," and I say, "No,
that's not what it is." I saw a little excerpt on Channel 4 news
with Ken Schocknek and I saw just the back of the car going down a driveway,
and that's all I saw, so I called the station and talked to Shocknek,
got the information on where Henry's shop was and I went over and saw
his car and decided to build one. But if I had never seen that program,
I wouldn't have even known about the car. I liked the way it looked
from the back when it went out and then he said, "Hey, you can
build a roadster for $15,000 or less," and I go, "I'm going
to check that out. Yeah, I think I can do that. When, and how much,
and when can you deliver?" It took me about three months to find
a donor car. Because they were selling like hotcakes. Every time I called
somebody, "Oh, it's sold. It's sold." So I don't know what
the deal is about those 2-wheel drive S10's. They were a dime a dozen.
Now, everybody wants them for some reason, I don't know what it is.
they're all building Rodsters.
not doing that. It must be a nice little car for the kids to go to school
in. Everyone wants 4-wheel drives and I figured 2-wheel drives, nobody
wants them. But I found just the opposite. I went to all different kinds
of car auctions. I have a friend who has this Bernie's Automotive Toyota
in Wilmington that has a resale license, so he took me to some auctions
and I was just specifically looking for an S10. So I went to all different
kinds of auctions and looked around in the papers. I went down on Thursday
-- that's when the Truck Trader comes out -- and I stacked them
up and went through them real quick and made some calls -- I did that
for about three months until I found the one in Azusa. Boom! I smoked
it over there and I said, "I'll take it. Here's a hundred dollars.
I'll be back tomorrow." And that's how I ended up with the car.
really had to work at it.
Yeah, to find
the right car. If you want a 4.3. You just don't pick up just any piece
of junk. It takes a while to find it. Takes some time and effort to
find the right donor car. Once you've found the right car you're comfortable
with, then the rest is history. You just have to do what you have to
do to the car and when you get ready for the kit, then you order it
from Henry... But you have an awful lot to do before you're even in
the position to start... Before you take delivery on the kit. What I
did, I got the lowering kit from Henry and I lowered it -- got just
the lowering kit, not the complete kit. And I lowered it and did all
the cutting and everything that I needed to do, and I called him and
said, "I'm ready," so when I took delivery on the kit, I was
almost ready to start putting it together. So, there was no hurry about
the kit. It's going to take you a while to get the car mechanically
sound, then you do all the other things, and then I went down and got
the lock track put in it to make it hook up at stops. Did all that before
I ordered the kit. So you can drive it, actually use it for transportation
while you're getting it ready to chop up. I had people wanting to buy
it every time I stopped at the service station. "Want to sell your
Blazer?" That's before I cut it up.
says you put it together in your backyard?
Well, my garage.
I have a two-car garage, and I had a slab out in the back with a cover
over it. You can't leave it out. There's no way it's even practical
to start building that thing without a garage or carport or something
to secure it.
I talked to
Henry a couple of days ago -- asked what he thought, if I wanted to
build this one and then build another one. I guess to the right person,
it's probably worth $22,000. I've got $17,000 in this, okay, so I build
a similar vehicle, same quality. I have $17,000 in it, then I'd have
to get, you figure, 120 hours and $50 an hour, you're talking $6,000
to put it together. It's a lot of work and a lot of time, so it's about
$5,000 or $6,000 for somebody to build one for you, if you buy the car.
So, they're probably worth, depends on the buyer, but the right party
who'd rather than build one, just find one that's just complete and
nice, probably give you $25,000 for it. I guess. It's about what I think
are some people building them for other customers, but I don't know
what they're charging. It would be interesting to find out.
You know some
people building them for other people?
There are people who've gone into that business.
Not in Southern
parts of the country.
Henry was telling
me about this guy who does that for people. I don't know where he is.
That he gets about five, six grand for labor to put one together.
his job and went into this fulltime.
I guess if you
advertise to the right people and they want them... Henry was telling
me about a guy that did that and had a guy build it for him and he loves
it, drives it every day. Him and his wife take it out all the time and
he didn't hesitate at all about plunking down whatever it cost. Whatever
the market would bear, he paid it and was happy to get it. I wouldn't
want to do it for a living because it's too much work.
retired. Enjoy yourself.
Yeah. I thought
I could build another one and sell this one, build another one, to be
honest with you. Because I had a lot of fun. I'd do things a little
bit different, but not much. I might do it, I don't know. Somebody that
likes cars and is mechanically inclined would have a ball building this
like you did.